1. Before we show the sequence of tightening the head to engine sequence, lets back up and show how to remove the head then, adding the gasket and applying the sequence. If you loosen the bolts and the engine head does not come off easy, then try to use the compression to pop it off. With the bolts and studs back on the head but loose, try cranking the engine and see if the compression will pop a section off of the head. if so, you can pry it off from there.

2. Assuming you have the head gasket off and ready to replace, lets look at where the studs and bolts go. Here you see the bolts outlined that are F marked on Fords. You should have 9 of these bolts. The other 6 will be studs.
Special Note: Position 14 changed to a Stud at Serial # 188637. In addition, All Positions became studs after serial # 242994

3. On your Go Devil Engine you should have:

5 - 7/16" x 14NC x 3 7/16" x 7/16" x 20NF in positions 5,7,9,10,15
1- 7/16" x 14NC x 3 7/8" x 7/16" x 20NFposition 12
9 - Bolts 7/16" x 14NC X 2 3/4"
positions 1,2,3,4,6,8,11,13,14.
Note: Bolts were changed to studs for GPWs late Dec 44. On MB's the change to studs came at engine MB 288835 Apr 43.

4. Be sure you use a quality torque wrench to tighten the cylinder head bolts and studs. You can find lots of different types and qualities from $10-$100.

5. As shown in the TM 9 -803 manual, the order of the tightening sequence is shown. Note: to start, you should only torque each of these to about 50 lbs pressure to start.

6. The TM shows that the studs should be torqued slightly less than the studs.
Studs - Torqued 60-65lbs
Bolts - Torqued 65-75lbs